OLIFANTS RIVER GAME RESERVE SHARE BLOCK LIMITED - NEWSLETTER

February 2007 From Mario Cesare

Don’t worry …..be happy…. For now .

We now know that global warming is no longer a “Greenie scare tactic” or unproven theory….it is a scientific fact that the globe is getting warmer and the world’s climate is changing as a result of greenhouse gas emissions. So when the mercury shot up to 45 degrees C. in December, coupled with lower than usual rainfall for the month, and the new grass growth withered, turning from green to blue grey … I didn’t need much more convincing. In my world this was a sure sign, the beginning of the end so to speak. As the northern lowveld is already a semi-arid and hot environment, increasing these two important limiting factors would undoubtedly have a negative effect on the ecosystem and so I was understandably depressed. But before reaching for a double dose of prozak and looking at retirement homes in Greenland, I was reminded of Christmas 1982, spent in Botswana’s Tuli Block where most of the day was spent up to our chins in the relatively cool water of a concrete reservoir….the ambient temperature was hovering around 47 degrees C!

The shrill high pitched staccato of the cicadas was the only evidence of anything active, nothing else dared expend a single kilojoule. Small birds of various species congregated on the stoep floor of the main house clearly the coolest spot they could find. I recall that Fork Tailed Drongos and White Helmet Shrikes appeared to be most susceptible to the heat as many actually died. An African Goshawk squatted open beaked and wide eyed, surrounded by dozens of panting and dying birds. Clearly focused on staying alive, it showed absolutely no interest in the other birds and they in turn were too stressed to care or move away.

Using chunks of ice taken from the deep freeze, we cooled the water in the nearby birdbath and those birds that had the energy to drink did so. A garden sprinkler was turned on – which proved to be a life saver as many of the birds moved into the fine spray competing for space as they fluffed their feathers in an attempt to absorb the cooling moisture….. so yes there have been some hot days in the past, summer temperatures in the mid forties, are not a recent phenomenon. In fact anthropological evidence of early hominids in East Africa’s Olduvi Gorge suggests that they lived in a hot climate and perspired a lot…..this was millions of years ago.

Knowing that it was as hot, if not hotter years ago, should allow us to believe that maybe we are not becoming less tolerant of the heat per se, but rather that we are becoming less tolerant of the effect of direct sunlight on our skin, which definitely feels more harsh and is becoming progressively more so….no doubt that ozone depletion is the culprit here….something early man did not have to put up with I’m sure.

Opening our rainfall record book to write up the miserably few mm of rain that followed December’s heat, I came across the rainfall figures for Balule from 1986 to date which I have enclosed for your interest. On the face of it, there doesn’t appear to be anything abnormal in the figures, nothing jumps out at you to suggest that our rainfall “allocation” has been adversely affected over the years. Here accurately recorded are the last twenty years of rainfall records and the ten year variance is a mere 3mm! Those skeptics among us who believe that this is enough to muffle the alarm bells and who wish to bury their heads in the sand will in light of the following hopefully change their minds. We now are beginning to understand, and it is becoming increasingly apparent, that it is not so much the cumulative amount of rainfall recorded for a particular period that is significant but rather what influence global warming has on the effectiveness of the falls. What has varied and noticeably so are the summer rainfall patterns and the character of the falls, they are more erratic and inconsistent, resulting in less benefit to the vegetation and subsequently lower productivity. Examples of negative effects include lack of timeous follow up rains ie seeds germinate only to have the young shoots get burned off or dry out, the erosion of topsoil and the destruction of seed beds. Statistically winter rainfall figures for the lowveld have shown the most dramatic drop, the effect of this is yet to be studied. Some authorities suspect there is a link between winter rainfall and the decline of Sable and Roan Antelope in the Kruger.

I’m sure you must be asking why then is there some reservation or hint of contradiction in what I’m saying. We know that ecology is not an exact science, so we cannot rely on statistics alone, I believe we may need to accept that some things are just bigger than us. A completeness of a complex of conditions is what makes the system tick and even though the numbers look normal there are abnormalities in function, but not enough or so out of control as to ring the doomsday bells. I do not support the belief that we are teetering on a “knife edge” of environmental tolerances at this stage as organisms have responded to and adapted to various environmental stimuli since life began. Even if the region gets progressively hotter and drier, to a point of course, the vast majority of our fauna and flora on the reserve will cope ….. in fact there are many that will actually thrive in those conditions.

Rainfall

Rainfall to Date

Lisbon is looking comparatively lush, due mainly to a recent fall of approximately 60mm, while the rest of the area received progressively less, moving towards the Olifants River. Total rain received for the season to date is 300mm.

Vegetation

According to our intrepid technicians from the Agricultural Research Council, preliminary results from their latest vegetation monitoring sites on our reserve are positive. Indications are that despite less grass cover, i.e. fewer tufts present, more perennial grass species are being counted. In short the quality of the grass component of the vegetation is improving.

The expected return of large number of elephant as the marulas ripened did not occur. Higher rainfall in the southern Klaserie and Timbavati meant that the elephant were concentrated there and for the most part of this season and until only recently, there were very few elephant on the reserve. This has had a noticeable effect on the number of “damaged” trees when compared to the same time last year. The wire mesh that has been removed from the Malan fence line will be used in an effort to prevent the ring barking of selected trees. Members wishing to make use of this, may do so – see “electric fences around units”.

Escom Four Power Lines Clearing

Escom subcontracted an independent company to clear the growth under the four power lines. The cleared section extends right through our reserve and the Klaserie Game Reserve. Legally this is Escom’s property and therefore they are entitled to maintain their power lines as per schedule, we felt however, they could have used more discretion.

Repeated attempts to contact the authorized person in charge at Escom were in vain. Some simple ecological advice could have been taken that would have had less visual impact and would probably have cost them less. Many of the species of trees and shrubs that were cleared, could never grow to the height that would cause a threat to the power lines, even under ideal conditions and so could have been left to create a more natural mosaic.

Due to the number of people employed and the scale of the clearing operation, our anti-poaching patrol were in constant attendance, to prevent any direct negative effect on the animal population of the reserve and to limit any uncontrolled “wanderitis”. Our request that they leave the game paths open and free of the brush pile seemed to fall on deaf ears. The contracting company had one purpose – to get in and clear what they had been instructed to clear and to do it as fast as possible. We will move in when they leave, open the game paths ourselves and spread some of the brush pile.

Clubhouse Update

The clubhouse and guest accommodation is almost complete and the viewing deck over the river is in the process of construction.  These are facilities to be proud of and we trust members will get the enjoyment from them that they were designed to provide.  The pool will be re-marbellited shortly and furnishings to complete the ambiance will be added over a period of time.  We are looking to members who may have access to wholesale prices for a flat TV, decoder and DVD player.  With the world cup cricket and rugby imminent, we would like to have this first class equipment available before then.  A benevolent donor would be most welcome!

The electric fence around the perimeter and the wire interlaced in the roof support beams will not keep monkeys and baboons out, but is intended to prevent them from roosting and messing about. Please take care not to leave your coolboxes open. Other items that can be carted away by these primates should be secured, eg cell phones, keys, tubes of sunscreen and so on.

Diarise 28 th March 2007

Please put in your diaries the date of the meeting for the C Class ratification, which will be held on 28 th March. 2007 at the Bryanston Country Club at 18h00. A formal notice will follow shortly.

Automatic switch over gas regulators

One of our members has managed to source (at cost) an excellent gas saving and gas level monitor. It features an easy to read gas level gauge and auto-change over to the second gas bottle. No wasted gas or pilot lights going out and fridges going out in the middle of the night. We are monitoring one at the moment and if it works well and enough interest is shown, we will acquire these units for sale to members. The cost is estimated to be a little more than a 48kg bottle of gas.

History of Olifants – Coffee Table Book

Ron and Cindy have organized a coffee table book with a short beautifully illustrated history of Olifants River Game Reserve. The price will be approximately R350, please let us know if you are interested and a book can be reserved for you.

Tree Identification Tags

I have a limited number of tree identification tags left. Should you want a number of trees around your unit tagged, please give the office a call.

Electric Fences Around Units

We are aware of the fact that we are in a big five game reserve and have to live around the animals and not them live around us. This is the view taken by the board when approached on the issue of erecting electricity fences around units to protect certain trees from elephant damage. In short, for the time being the board have ruled against any electric fences around units, however, chicken wire wrapped around the trunks of selected trees to prevent ring barking may be undertaken. In the interim, we must appeal to members not to take measures to prevent damage without prior consultation.

Game Updates

Neil Hulett’s weekly game drive bulletin has been sorely missed and I’m sure you are all looking forward to its resumption soon. In the meantime I will attempt to bring you up to date on the broader picture regarding the game in the region and on Olifants more specifically.

Going through the game sightings book, it is clear that many interesting and important sightings are not being recorded. Please take a moment to write your sightings in. Alternately phone or radio us during office hours and we will write it up for you.

The reputation for quality game viewing on Olifants is becoming well known and the last few months have been no exception.. In fact members are becoming used to seeing at least three of the big five on a daily basis, leaving the reserve without seeing a leopard is now disappointing. One advantage that is already evident now that we are part of the open system, is that when the viewing is good, it is very good and due to our water hole distribution even the quiet times are punctuated with general plains game….. it is almost impossible to draw a blank.

Rhino are being seen in numbers exceeding all predictions, particularly on Lisbon where up to nineteen individuals were seen together. Members are seeing more rhino now than during the time we were a fenced in system. In other words under “natural” conditions we are seeing comparatively more Rhino on the Reserve at the moment, however this will vary from season to season as they respond to environmental factors and water availability.

Elephant numbers dropped drastically with the onset of the rainy season. At the January Balule Warden’s Committee meeting, regional rangers concluded that no more than one hundred elephant of the five hundred counted in September were left on Balule. This respite doesn’t appear to have lasted too long and the shift to former numbers, has already begun as the natural waterholes and pans in the neighbouring reserves begin to dry up. Breeding herds of up to sixty individuals have been sighted on Lisbon and Seekooigat and reports of small breeding herds in the south have been received.

Batchelor bull buffalo “dagga boys” are being seen regularly at Warthog Pan, Wild Dog Pan and Hide Dam. These old buffalo do not move as frequently or as far as the larger breeding herds do. Breeding groups of buffalo have been reported in herds of up to one hundred and fifty individuals. The expected influx from the Klaserie’s huge herds has not happened yet, nor have ours moved there. The total number of buffalo on Balule is estimated to be more than three hundred.

Lion numbers are healthy – rumours of new cubs near Hide Dam, could push our present pride to approximately fourteen lion. The total for Balule hovers around the fifty mark. A mating pair was observed in mid February near Double Dam, so we can expect more cubs in May.

Although cheetah, have been a rare sighting recently, leopard and hyaena sightings have more than made up for this. A number of reports of hyaena actively hunting wildebeest calves have been received from members.

The number of leopard sightings for the last few months needs mention, particularly the female and cubs seen at Idube regularly. The hilly Commiphora woodland area making up the greater part of Grootdraai appears to be where the majority of sightings are recorded.

General game viewing has been spectacular – to spotlight over one thousand impala on a two hour evening drive is not difficult. Wildebeest and zebra are a common sight on most of the clearings on Olifants, particularly in the late afternoon. The predation percentage on some known herds of wildebeest, particularly the calves is as high as eighty percent, this is of course unsustainable.

Giraffe and kudu are seen in good numbers. Kudu bulls arguably the most handsome antelope in Africa have been seen in bachelor groups of up to nine individuals. These enigmatic gray ghosts of the bush appear from nowhere for a while, then disappear for months… and nobody knows exactly where they go.

Three of the original pack of wild dogs released on Balule were seen at Lisbon Big Dam two months ago, two of which had collars. As the batteries of these transmitters are thought to have expired, the collars would be useless. Our attention was brought to the plight of four dogs trapped in a nearby game reserve and unless they are darted and removed, they will be shot by the farmer. This could not be allowed to happen so Balule has offered to give them a home. They will be “hot” released in the reserve and Dr Pete Rodgers will do the relocation free of charge. Whether these individuals are part of the original pack released on Balule or not, nobody knows for certain.

Black Backed Jackal numbers have increased substantially. The Red Veld Rat explosion last year and the excellent natality among impala have no doubt had a positive effect on the present status of this predator on the reserve.

The dams on Lisbon are proving ever popular. Double Dam is rather low and if not filled going into the winter season, it will dry up before July . Big Dam received one of those patchy rain storms and was filled to the brim about a month ago and is attracting big herds of elephant and buffalo.

Incidentally while working on the new deck at the clubhouse the contractors witnessed a bushbuck being taken by a crocodile. Within a few minutes, six other crocodiles, one of which was estimated to be at least 3.5m came from other parts of the river to join in the feast.

Unusual Sightings

Three Leopard Mason 47

Widetoed Turners Gecko Greenberg 22

Jackal kills Genet Forsdyke 3

Nineteen Rhino same time at Big Dam Teichman 21

Honey Badger Falkenberg 52 / Forbes 18/ Surtees 69

Rock Python Morrison 16 / M. Victor 63 / Schutz 59

Bush Pigs Straughan 22

Leopard with cubs Thomas 15/ Flowers 23/ Falkenberg 52 / Firer 18

Jackals with impala kill – sunset plain Staff

Jackals with impala kill – airstrip Black 80

Four Genet kittens Scorer 1

Five tiny Jackal pups Scorer 1

Juvenile Hyaena Scorer 1

Caracal Aitken 31 / Cleary 85

Civet with three juveniles Cleary 85

White Backed Night Heron Firer 18

Crocodile takes Vervet Monkey Firer 18

Crocodile takes Bushbuck Big Five Staff

Aardvark Tenderini 72 / Kuhlman 67

Two Pels Fishing Owls Tenderini 72

150 plus Buffalo Thomas 15

Sharp’s Grysbok Flowers 23 / Staff

Wild Dogs Hartman 49 / Staff / Pownell 33

Booted Eagles Flowers 23

Great Spotted Cuckoo Flowers 23

Cheetah Bullen 64/ Staff / Borchards 65 / Kassner 46

100 plus elephant at Big Dam Scorer 1

Ground Hornbills Beesley 80 / Makare 56

Porcupine Ryan 64 / Scorer 1 / Staff

Puffadder Scorer 1

Leopard & Lion drinking at same w/hole Tenderini 72

White Crowned Lapwing Appel 54

Research

Helen Farmer’s research into waterhole distribution and its effects on the surrounding vegetation is going well. A game guard was allocated to Helen and her assistant on a daily basis for three weeks. While the clubhouse / cottage was being given its finishing touches, the research team stayed in my house for a few days, but mainly used Dinidza and Louise Cleary’s house Helen has completed the private reserves and is now in the Kruger Park from where her final studies will take her to Mocambique.

Anti-Poaching / Security

As part of our agreement with the veterinary department, Balule will now extend their area of responsibility to the northern fence between FOSKOR and Doreen and Rhoda and Doreen. To this end Olifants’s anti-poaching rangers have extended their current patrol range and have been conducting regular patrols in this area. To date numerous very thick (up to 8mm) cable snares have been removed. The decomposed carcass of a giraffe which had been snared was found on Doreen. An impala and a juvenile elephant fell victim to snares on Grietjie and a zebra was snared on Olifants West.

Besides the fact that the poachers on the Grietjie area took advantage of the warden going to Canada for three weeks, the only really “hot spot” appears to be the state owned properties across the river, namely Doreen and Rhoda.

While our driver Colbert was waiting for members to do their shopping at Le Bamba, a youth brazenly tried to steal luggage from the game viewer….Colbert was sitting on the vehicle at the time!! Please be extra cautious when visiting Le Bamba or Spar this Easter, Hoedspruit and the surrounding area is becoming a target for criminals. Sixty one Land Cruiser pick-ups have been stolen in three months. A woman was raped in front of her children and her Land Cruiser Prado stolen. Four houses were broken into in one night recently. Closer to home it is thought that ex-staff members may be indirectly or directly linked to break-ins at Drifters and Mohlabetsi Game Lodges, due to the timing of thefts which coincided with game drive schedules.

Train Deaths

It is not surprising that the increase in train deaths has coincided with the number of reliable reports recently of the trains going faster than they should. I have contacted Spoornets Environmental Department head by e-mail in this regard. Their response was immediate and positive. A letter was circulated to all concerned and relevant departments who were instructed to take measures to ensure that drivers adhere to the speed limits imposed.

Since the last report the following animals have been killed by the train:

1 x elephant cow – Brakspruit Bridge

1 Buffalo – Venice cutline

1 Buffalo calf – near Zozo hut

1 Lion – Ians Pan – Zozo hut

1 Hippo – Rusermi

Realistically, when one considers the density of game (large game) moving across the railway line on a daily basis and the fact that the railway bisects the reserve, collisions are inevitable. Limiting the damage by reducing train speed and creating awareness and concern among the drivers is the best we can hope to achieve at this stage. There is just not enough manpower nor is it practical from Spoornet’s side to monitor speed and police the tracks through the late night / early morning hours which is when the majority of incidents occur.

One afternoon we came across a large elephant bull grazing peacefully along the railroad tracks near Warthog Pan. It was interesting to see that he was selectively eating South American Starburr, an alien plant, nevertheless, that was not the initial reason for taking interest in the situation. The elephant was so intent on eating that he progressively made his way further and further northwards into the cutting. I knew that the further he went, the steeper the sides got and soon he would not be able to climb out, he would have to backtrack or continue until the cutting leveled out. To make matters worse the cutting was excavated through loose formations of stone and gravel.

Getting out of the landcruiser, I raised my arms and clapped my hands. I was close enough to get his attention yet felt relatively safe standing on the eastern side of the railway. He turned and faced me square on raising his head slightly in a quizzical rather than confrontational attitude. I picked up a stone and threw it at the centre of his broad forehead. It bounced off harmlessly, but made a hollow thunk, a sound that he nor I had heard before. At this he turned abruptly and walked up the side of the track on the Warthog Pan side now presenting a bigger target area, another stone on his rump was all it took. Purposefully and without wanting to suffer further indignation he strode off in the direction of the Pan….he hadn’t gone one hundred metres when the train came hurtling through where he was standing moments before…….

An elephant bull broke through the Tshukudu lion camp fences crossed the railway line, broke through two fences on Jejane and then headed into the Klaserie. This shows that even four electrified fences is no deterrent to a determined elephant.

Neighbours

Dinidza (For Sale)

Although not a necessary addition to Olifants from a traversing or strategic purchase point of view, Dinidza is it is nevertheless close enough to affect us negatively if it falls into the “wrong” hands. To this end it would certainly be worth encouraging like minded purchasers (preferably Olifants members) to procure the property, develop a small share block and reciprocate traversing and management.

Malan’s Farm Sold

The purchase by Miles Japhet of the farm Madrid (formerly Danie Malan’s, now known as Ukhozi) is another conservation milestone for Balule Nature Reserve and Olifants in particular.

Miles and Jetje Japhet are not only valued members of Olifants River Game Reserve, they are committed conservationists and influential landowners. Having them as immediate neighbours is already having a direct positive influence on the ecology of our reserve. A portion of the game fence barrier against the former hunting farm has been removed. This extends from the river at unit 56, right up to Nature’s Valley. Game can now move freely along the Olifants River floodplain from the main Phalaborwa / Hoedspruit tar road to Mocambique.

Craig Ferguson who is familiar to many of our members as the fixer of all things broke, will be managing this area. With Craig’s ecological background and knowledge of the area, the property should be in good hands.

Grietjie

The northern Grietjie fence line with Jan Bothma’s property “Nyatikulu”, which although a direct neighbour is not part of Balule has been a contentious issue of late, particularly as the corner near Olifants North’s gate is acting as a funnel. Elephant breaking out of Grietjie into this area are being shot as trophies. While Crispian Barlow, Grietie’s warden was repairing this section of fence, he was shot at twice, one bullet lodged in his vehicle after going through the windscreen and narrowly missing him. A charge of attempted murder has been laid. This after Crispian narrowly escaped injury from an angry young elephant bull two weeks previously.

Know Your Staff

Albert Ngobeni

We have chosen to profile Albert in this newsletter as he is one of our longest serving staff members, having been at Olifants for nineteen years. Albert performs a number of important functions that are intrinsic to each member’s stay – gas and water switch-ons as well as delivering countless gas bottles and bundles of firewood,fixing leaking water pipes, starting the water pumps and driving the maids to their destinations.

Albert was born in the Bushbuckridge area and has lived there his whole life. Winnie, his wife is a well known face as she often helps out on the temporary maid team, they had six children, one of whom passed away a number of years ago. The road to Olifants, as is the case with most of these stories, is an interesting one. His father worked for Hall and Sons in the Nelspruit area for many years, eventually passing away whilst still in service, he was a policeman for the big farming company and used his influence to get Albert a job when he was still a youngster in the late fifties.

Albert’s first task was looking after the mules on the farm, it was interesting to learn that at that time they were still using oxen to plough largely undeveloped lands. We perhaps forget that the Lowveld back then was still frontier country and much of the original bush had to be cleared before any farming activities could take place. The donkeys were used to transport poles and grass, which were taken into the orchards to pack under fruit trees to prevent moisture escaping or to support newly planted trees. Albert eventually moved into his father’s shoes taking on a security job with the company.

Greener pastures beckoned and Albert headed into the Sabie Sands Reserve, where he was employed as an anti-poaching man, from there he moved to Ulu-Saba Game Lodge. This was the beginning of a close association with Tim Ham. In 1988 when Tim and his wife Mandy moved to Olifants, Albert came with them, many of the early members will remember the role he played in the sales team of the newly formed Share Block company as he was the game scout that drove potential clients around the reserve, showing them game and introducing many of them to the bushveld. Interesting to see how many aspects of Olifant’s growth he has been involved in, talking in the office one day of how many hours Albert drives a vehicle around the reserve in the course of his duties, we realised it was equivalent to a trip to Johannesburg each and every day. Thanks Albert, it is appreciated.